July
2, 2007
- Independence day is almost here. Supposed to be a big party up at Conception
bay, but we are happy here in Ballandra. We left Bahia Candleros a couple
days ago and headed up to Escondido to top up on diesel, gas, and water.
We had a great sailing day. It was blowing about 15-20 knots. After we
had everything topped up, we drove up to Loreto. The anchorage is totally
open, but we got lucky and had settled weather, We were able to spend the
night and go to the farmers market on Sat. morning. While Eileen was at
the market Scott from Masquerade and I went on a Propaneintheass run. You
have to take a taxi to the outskirts of town, but after all was said an
done, the price added up to about the same price we paid in La Paz. Finally
was able to upload all the new stuff to the web page too. We saw some type
of sea snake yesterday while snorkeling and Eileen saw a sea turtle while
snorkeling this morning which was quite exciting. The camera is officially
crap. It will now turn on and work for about ten minutes before crapping
out. Something is burned out. I disassembled everything and cleaned all
the connections. The good news is that since this camera is now a couple
years old I can pick up another one cheap. In other news, we are going
to order a Rocna anchor. Our CQR anchor sucks! This single most important
item on our boat, is going to send me over the edge. So I have decided
to buy one that actually works. It's hard to believe that people have put
up with the substandard anchoring abilities of the CQR, for all these years.
Anyway, we are planning a big potluck for tomorrow night, should have about
six boats of people on the beach.
July
5, 2007
- The potluck was a big hit, everyone pigged out. About 2130 we started
getting a few mosquitos so everyone adjourned to their respective boats.
Yesterday there wasn't enough wind to fly my big american flag, like we
do every 4th. So we tied it to the boat hook and did a one dinghy parade
around the anchorage. For good measure I used my air horn to make damn
sure everyone came up on deck to see us go by. We also had an impromptu
dinghy raftup, because the folks on Imagine thought there might be fireworks
in Juancalito. So everyone rode out to the mouth of the bay to check it
out. Unfortunately, there weren't any fireworks to be seen in any direction.
Today we hiked overland with the Sailsoons, to the other side of the island.
It was quite a hike, we made it to the top of the mountain on the other
side overlooking the salt flats, and Salinas. Salinas is an abandoned town.
Sort of like some of our old west ghost towns. They have it guarded so
that people don't wreck the place. They hauled salt out of there for about
200 years. I guess it's not the money maker that it used to be. Anyway,
it took us about 5 hours round trip over varying terrain. We were all pretty
wasted and out of water by the time we returned.
July
6, 2007
- Today Eileen bought a Hawaiian sling from La Solana so that we could
do a bit of spear fishing. We tried it out at a reef that that we hadn't
been to before. The Sailsoons also went to try their luck as well. They
have a real spear gun and John was able to spear a couple nice sized fish.
I was able to kill a big hawkfish, so we all had a nice dinner over on
sailsoon, trying out all the different fish. Tomorrow is market day again
in Loreto, so we are driving over there, to do that and take care a of
a bunch of Internet stuff.
July
11, 2007
- Not much to report. We are anchored in Juancalito for the time being.
We will be hopping around the islands near Loreto for about ten days, as
I have a flight out to San Diego on July 20. I am going up to pick up our
new anchor and a couple other small items to bring back. We are busy today
running around Loreto. Had massive fish bake on the beach last night.
The couple from Delphin Solo provided a massive amount of fish that they
had speared that day. Everyone from five boats were packed and there was
still fish left over.
July
12, 2007
- RAIN TODAY! Today was the first real precipitation we've had since we
left Arkansas. It sputtered and spit for a good portion of the day.
We went into Loreto yesterday via taxi and bought a spear gun. We
are the great white hunters. It is really nice to supplement the
meat with fresh fish. Of course, we are also able to trade for fish,
shellfish, etc. where it is legal/available. We met our friend Kris
and got our Gerry Cunningham cruising guides and charts (half price $100
from another cruiser). They are much more detailed in certain areas
that our other guides don't cover. Since we originally hadn't planned
for a season in the Sea of Cortez, we decided to forego this expense, but
found them desirable after we got here.
We
have had a series of potlucks and gatherings on various boats and beaches,
with and without kids, sometimes reasonable and sometimes booze saturated.
We are having an amazing time sampling local fare and meeting cruisers
as well as chatting up the locals. And we still continue to gain
strength sometimes in spite of ourselves. But, when you eat fish
almost daily, beans, tortillas, and loads of fresh fruits and veggies,
you're bound to improve.
We
left Juancalito for a small anchorage called Denouement south of Honeymoon
Cove at Isla Danzante (dancer) on Sunday. The coves are so small
that you must use a bow and stern anchor. This was a new experience
for me and I got very nervous, much to Jamie's frustration. I can't
help it. It was a flawless anchoring experience, but a little stressful.
Jamie and I have done lots of hunting with our spear and sling, but I have
been singularly unsuccessful. Thank goodness we are not relying on
my survival skills. We'd have starved already. I get an A for
effort.
July
16, 2007
- Today we motored to Isla Carmen to anchor
at Marquer. It is only about an hour from our last anchorage.
The water is very warm here, we'll get the hull cleaned again this afternoon
when it's good and hot outside. Jamie is flying home for 4 days next
week, so I have been practicing my singlehanding. I sounded the bay
and anchored by myself today to be sure I wasn't going to have any issues.
It is really not difficult. We do the same things every time.
It's just a little more labor intensive without a lackey to do the grunt
work. So now maybe Jamie won't worry about me being alone for a few
days. Woo hoo! We have lots of boats out here willing to buddy
boat and help if needed. I don't foresee any problems, it should
be plenty of fun.
This
evening we went over and hung out with Maitairoa for a few hours. They
have ice.... Wahoo!
July
17, 2007
- I have had a lot of people ask about why
we are ditching our CQR anchor. FYI - The CQR works good in mud and soft
sand. However, in many of the anchorages the sand is quite packed and hard
to dig into with the CQR. It sometimes takes us 3-4 tries to get the thing
to set. Which doesn't lead to very high expectations of a good reset when
you swing around. Additionally, since I am pulling up the chain by hand,
it makes me pretty irritated. I have talked to many folks down here and
the ones that are using the CQR regardless of size, say the same thing.
The CQR just doesn't inspire confidence. Other traditional anchors, like
Bruce, Delta, etc. Have a better track record down here. Have a look at
the Rocna online. There was a report published by West Marine of 14 different
anchors, many of which I never heard of. The gist of it, was to test, the
distance to set, and then measure when, and at what point it would break
out. Basically, the CQR came in dead last in the testing, with the Rocna
at the top of the list. The CQR does a good job up north where the bottom
is softer. I'll publish a short follow up report, later on, to let everyone
know how we like the Rocna...stay tuned.
Today
was a pretty lazy day, since it was pretty cool temperature wise. We lazed
around the boat most of the day. In the afternoon Eileen and I went snorkeling
on the west reef. There wasn't much to see, so Eileen practiced her diving.
Once we were loaded back into the dinghy, Alex from Maitairoa came over.
He had been trolling around the bay in his dinghy. He informed us that
he had just seen a whale shark! So I immediately put my gear back on and
we drove into the vicinity. I jumped in, and swam with it for quite a while.
It was awesome! This was just a baby, about maybe 12 feet long. Swimming
alongside this huge beautiful beast was quite exciting. Eileen was scared
at first, but was finally convinced that they are harmless. So got in while
Alex held onto our dinghy. She was only able to see, sort of the "tail
end of it". Hopefully, we'll see another one in our travels. (Jamie)
July
20, 2007
- I brought back some tofu this morning from
the reef, before I left for San Diego. I even traded some for a ride to
the airport. The airport in Loreto is just a glorified palapa with some
blacktop out back.
July
29, 2007
- Jamie went off on his Loreto to San Diego
errands while I stayed with the boat in Juancalito. It was a nice
break for me. I got a lot of projects completed. I recut the
forward sun cover so it binds tightly when hung, no more noise on windy
days. I also modified the sail bag for our genoa, the head sail.
The old sail was rope luff and smaller. The new sail has a wire luff
and doesn't fit the bag nicely. This made us very lazy about stowing
the sail. The sun is deadly to sails, so I added an extra four feet
and more fasteners to make it easier. We use it every time we drop
the sail, now. I also attached fasteners to our bimini, the back
boat cover and side screens so we have lightweight hanging screens to block
the sun, not the bugs. It has made a big difference in our comfort
during the sunrise/sunset hours when it seems to scorch all those exposed.
It was an uneventful time for me with the exception of the powerboaters
and jetskiiers who all used Flying Cloud as a drive-by target. What
a drag - all weekend long.
Jamie
returned on Monday without luggage. His boxes were left behind when
his LA connecting flight didn't manage to get luggage transferred.
We did various boat projects and waited for delivery until Wednesday at
which point Jamie finally got through to the airport and found that customs
wanted to look in the boxes. After a quick trip and no delay, the
boxes were opened and he was able to go. No fees. They just
saw the shank to the "old rocna anchor we had in storage" that was covered
in old paint and marks. Nothing valuable there ;)
We
attached the new anchor the same day and, of course, it set instantly.
To thank Jimmy and Melanie and Leina Ala for their help, car rides, etc,
we went to Loreto for happy hour and clams at a bar on the malecon and
then had pizza and drinks before returning happier than we'd been in several
days.
On
Thursday, we left Juancalito for a motor sail to Isla Coronado just northeast
of Loreto. It was a nice anchorage, another instant set for the Rocna,
and a relaxed night. There were a few large powerboats, but no one
we had met, charters, I think. We even watched some old Lovejoy episodes
on the computer, we had so much power! In the morning, Loreto pangas
with day renters came bombing into the beautiful white beach with palapas
starting at 7am. Not our thing.
Again
heading further north, we sailed by San Juanico, but the swells were from
the east and northeast (odd this time of year) which made both the southern
and northern end rolly, so we continued to a little cove called La Ramada
on Friday afternoon and dropped the hook with Momo and Moonhunter.
______
We
learned about chocolates, an excellent clam that can be found anywhere
in these waters. Of course, they are illegal for gringos, so we didn't
collect or eat them. We just learned about them... In the afternoon,
swells turned northeast and were making La Ramada Rolly, so we moved on.
We checked out Saquicisimunde, but it was very uncomfortable and too exposed,
so we tucked in behind Punto Pulpito for a nice evening. We steamed
our dinner and dipped it in butter and garlic. Delish. Necessary
remains were tossed overboard.
Today
we went snorkeling early. It was the best snorkeling so far in the
Sea of Cortez that I've experienced. We saw tangs and angelfish that
were over a foot long. Many many new varieties. A few new colorations
on fish in mating season. It was awesome. We caught a common
jack (Cravalle) and grilled it for lunch with beans and rice. It
was the worst fish I've ever eaten. Soft flesh, dark meat.
We kept the leftovers for dinner, though. No wasting what we be taking.
We
left Punto Pulpito in the afternoon and motorsailed, again <10 kts wind,
and dropped the hook in a gorgeous reef protected cove called San Sebastian.
It is big enough for one boat on one hook or two boat with bow and stern
anchor. We are by ourselves. Last night and tonight are the
first time ever we've had a place to ourselves. It's a nice experience
to get away from the rat race. Yes, there are crowds even among cruisers.
Too many potlucks, parties, boat gatherings, etc. I get cranky and
need my space. I think Jamie could live in the thick of it and never
grow tired of it. Plus, we need to get a little further north before
we go to San Carlos to pick up Adrian. 3 weeks and both our vacations
are over and he's back to school and we're back to wearing clothes...HA!
We
had a new camera disaster. Jamie bought a very nice waterproof camera
whose viewing screen filled with water the first time it was actually used.
He wrote a nastygram to the company re: false advertising. Hopefully
it will be remedied. We are back to the sporadic honor of the old
camera and it's will I turn on today whims.
As
a weather update, it's 90-100's everyday and water is about 85 degrees.
It is no longer cool and refreshing, but it's better for hours of snorkeling
and afternoon naps.
Anchor
UPDATE: So far the Rocna has been everything we ever dreamed of in an anchor.
Sets the first time every time, and holds. If anything changes we'll let
you know.
Recipe
oftheMonth:
Quick
and easy Tempura Batter (from the Peoples Guide to Mexico)
1
cup white flour
1
cup cornstarch
1
heaping Tbsp. baking power
1
or 2 egg yolks (optional)
1
tsp. salt
water
Sift
Flour and corn starch together, then add the other ingredients. Mix with
enough water to form a batter the consistency of light pancake batter.
It take one to two cups of water. Depending on how heavy you like the dough.
We've
used this quite a bit to deep fry squid and fish.
July
30, 2007
- Just thought I'd jam one last thing in here
for the end of the month. Pics and video of San Sebastian. This area is
completely devoid of fish. So don't plan on coming here for great snorkeling
or fishing. The locals drive there gringo pangas all the way out to the
nearby island (San Ildefanso), so that they can catch a little something.
Otherwise, it's a pretty nice little anchorage. It's quite tight, with
room for two boats if they both use stern hooks. There are a couple of
huge reefs at the entrance, which normally break all the swell.
